The Air Cooling Thread

[MANOWAR]

Snafu,
I have both the rev 1 & 2 of this MB. Put an XP-90 on rev1 and an XP-120 on rev 2. As per Thermalright website RE XP-120 & P4C800-E Dlx. "Tilting of capacitors may be necessary". I did have to tilt some of the capacitors to make it work. Not a great idea I know.

Nefarious,
I tried mounting it upside down as you describe but it was putting too much pressure on the NB and I didn't want to push it.

Originally Posted by Snafu

PS - the xp120 did not seem to want to fit on this board. At 1am I didn't want to bother messing around with it so I just stuck the xp90 in there. Maybe when I get more time to sort it out.

[Snafu]

Thanks MetalMan

I recall the need to bend caps but it was getting late when I tried to install. At that point I was more likely to snap them off the board than anything so I stuck with the xp90 to be safe.

[MANOWAR]

LOL Snafu!
I was worried about the same thing. And I was wide awake at the time. Well...as wide awake as I ever am at any rate.

[Nefarious]

hmm..i don't think there is much difference between the rev1 and rev 2 boards, so i don't see any reason for it to not fit on your board. When I put mine on, it was like a puzzle, it just fit into place. THe pressure placed on the NB is probably as much as the weight of a bananna

[Snafu]

Might help me to be wide awake and to put the board on the bench to install it. Probably would allow you to see everything that is in the way. If I go this far then I will likely take the dremel to the NB cooler just for clearance (and add some new thermal paste) if I run the pipes down. I hear (rumours?) it is better to run the pipes up is better but then again what do I know. If you can get the clearance then there wouldn't need to be any additional pressure on the NB.

Hey when installing the xp120 or xp90 were you as un comfortable folliwng their directions as I was? Installing one side then the other seems to put a lot of pressue on the proc from one side.

BTW - evidence of how wide awake I was, I reset the CMOS using the jumper and pulling the battery. When I went to restart my machine it was no go. After a few scratches I realised I forgot to put the jumper back in the right spot :o. Man what a tool I am!

[MANOWAR]

Nefarious,
It probably would have fit, but I had to rock the XP120 to get it to clamp. It was the rocking motion that made me nervous. If I could have got it to clamp without rocking it I think it would have been ok.
Just going by memory but I think I remember reading the NB heatsink was mounted differently on the rev 2 board. I will compare my computers tonight and post back with my results.

Snafu,
I strongly recommend you remove the MB from your case to install the XP120. It will be much easier that way. Also, once it's installed it is VERY difficult to remove. Be careful to get it right the very first time.
The official word from Thermalright last I checked was: Neither the orientation of the heatsink or the fan will impact performance. In other words heatpipes up or down, fan sucking or blowing, it doesn't matter. I can't verify this as I haven't experimented with it yet.
Yes, I was very uncomfortable following their directions. Very, very uncomfortable when you consider I have the P4EE proc. I just went real slow and careful and thankfully no problems.

[Nefarious]

I know the original P4C800 boards had the HS mounted on an angle. YOu can still see the footprint of the NB, they jsut changed the orientation of the HS. I think it had problems with high end videocards or something similar to that. I was extremely uncomfortable putting it in. I think i was sweating when i did it. I have very bad luck with computers

Not that I've tested a bunch of HS before, but from what I know, the XP-120 with a nexus/yate loon fan is awsome and probably the best you can get. WIth Snafu's reversed airflow method, my proc doesn't go over 40C under load, and aLL my fanS ARE spinning <1000RPM

[Nefarious]

Any comments to this?

Originally Posted by Nefarious

Currently i have my CPU fan hooked up to the mobo. I was thinking to split the wire and hook up the RPM sensor on the mobo and the power on the Rheobus. Is this okay to do? any drawbacks?

[Snafu]

Hey Nef - sounds interesting but I have mine hooked to the mobo header to let it run the fan speed. I believe you can download speedfan to make manual adjustments and save you from having to split & solder wires.

If you do decide to split them I recommend that you split them far enough away from the 3-pin connector so that you can resolder the wires back together in case you want to go back.

So far I have not noticed temps over 40C with the xp90 and a panaflo 92mm fan hooked into the mobo header. On boot I do notice that the fan cranks right up for a few seconds and then slows down to about 2100-2200rpm (relatively quiet but not silent)

For the Rev 1.02 board the fins on the NB heat sink are vertical and there are 4 clamps holding it down

MM I am not so sure I really believe what TT says about pipe orientation (heck I didn't believe them about the installation instructions either). Glad your EE was not pooched by it.

I think it would be a better cooler if the heat pipes were completely vertical with teh proc at the bottom. The heat gase or liquid? woudl rise to be cooled and fall back down. Tower coolers would be the best solution if the mobo were flat. I wish heat pipes were easy to make to try this out.

[KGB]

Originally Posted by Nefarious

well from what i've been reading...sound insulation should be the last thing you do.

And why is that? Cause it will be to heavy and some people cant carry it to lan party with their girly arms? boo-hoo, cry me a river

Lian-Li pc1060 comes from factory with sound insulation and Lion Li is not dumb, so there is a good reason they did slap foam insulation all over the interior of the case.
I have lian-li pc1060 case and i aded more dynamat to reduce case noise do to vibration, and it does wonders. Even dynamat website recomends using it inside computer cases.

Beffore Dynamat:




After, with Dynamat:

[Nefarious]

I'm not saying that it doesn't work, becasue it does, but putting sound insulation on a computer with 4 tornado's doesn't really do much. it would work better if you silenced everything else, then insulated the case.

[KGB]

You right. Nevertheless, I would still rather have a case with dynamat in it, IF, i had 4 tornado fans.


Ok. Lets get back on the track. The subject is: how to make case supper quiet or as quiet as possible, yet, have a good air flow for over all low temps of the system.

Some one suggested and or ive seen a site that sells rubber O-rings to use when mounting a fan to a case, so there is less vibration transferred to a case.

Instead of buying the o-rings, go to a local car parts store, and get a foot of rubber hose, then cut the o-rings with an exacto(sp) knife to your desired thickness. However, be sure you DONT buy a foot of fuel line, because fuel line hose is to hard of a rubber, thus will provide LESS dampening. So, be sure to buy a nice soft rubber hose, small enough for a screw to fit in to with out an effort. Most car part stores sell dress up hoses of different colors made by a company called APC, that make products for Import show cars (rice cookers). The material is easy to work with; it is soft and will last a long time under any condition.

If your case is on top of a desk, then consider changing feet on your case to rubber feet, or adding rubber padding to original feet, as it will not transfer all the noise to the desk and soften over all sound in the room.

If you have filters on your case, clean them at least once every two weeks, as it will keep your case clean and provide good airflow.

Any one has any more ideas, then keep them coming.

Peace.

[Snafu]

You can drop by most automotive DIY stores and pick up any size o-ring you want (Nef check out Cdn Tire).

Some fans are also being sold with rubber mounts as alternative to screws. These came with some silenX fans I bought.

For rubber feet on your case, you could cut up an old mouse pad (I always seem to have too many kicking around). They are usually made of fairly dense rubber foam and should work well.

For the rear intake filter I have jury-rigged a filter set-up. I am using a filter that is meant for floor vents in a house. It flows fairly well and seems to catch the dust. I think it flows better than the stock filters that came with the TT case.

[Nefarious]

if your talking about silencing harddrives, then suspending them is the way to go (if you have space). the rubber gromets that come with some of the antec cases are GARBAGE. I suspended my raptors and set up my DM10 to be suspended. I'll take a picture so that you know what I mean. You can find the rubber string at micheals arts and craft store. they sell from 0.5mm to 1.8mm. I got the 1.5mm and it seems to be fine for what I need it for.

Anyways, I'll take a picture this weekend so you know waht i'm tlakinga bout. IF you want, you can go to www.silentpcreview. and seach for stretch magic and they should have some great photo's there

[Snafu]

Me? No I was talking about fans. The SileX fans come with rubber mounts (no screws) to isolate the fan from the case.